This story for all intentional reasons is true, it is written from memory of 40 years ago, although the stories may seem fictional, I assure you the events did happen. The story takes a young naive Australian surfer through the mystical east and on to Africa, finding his way through many obstacles, some seeming not survivable, though he finds his way through the maze of obstacles to end up surfing perfect w ...Full description
This story for all intentional reasons is true, it is written from memory of 40 years ago, although the stories may seem fictional, I assure you the events did happen. The story takes a young naive Australian surfer through the mystical east and on to Africa, finding his way through many obstacles, some seeming not survivable, though he finds his way through the maze of obstacles to end up surfing perfect waves, experiencing along the way sex, drugs, and adventure.